https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog daily 0.75 2020-04-19 https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-one-4ehaz monthly 0.5 2020-09-07 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585003460612-IVNODM9RCRGQEUMDLPL9/022.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent - Racing the light of day, m y son Gavin, takes a moment to observe the sunset on Half Dome while still in the depths of Tenaya Canyon. Gavin gazes at the unique view of Half Dome from deep within Tenaya Canyon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084156150-NML9JSI45RF7L4V7VEZW/001.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent We start our day at the Sunrise Lakes Trailhead near the outlet of Tenaya Lake off of Tioga Pass Road. For the first 1.5 miles we walk down Tenaya Creek through beautiful meadows and forest. The creek bed then cuts through granite and plunges into an enormous granite basin that marks the head of Tenaya Canyon. There is a famous sign posted here by the park service that seems to have the opposite effect from what it was intended to have. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585083722147-1VCOCRO5B57HQCR99OKD/002.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent We descend into the baseball stadium sized granite amphitheater. It is truly an unbelievable site. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585083730074-AIER14W4OEUWSH8Q8D5U/003.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent The basin bends to the Southwest and there is a beautiful dense forest right between the granite walls. We skirted along the edge of the trees make good time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585083801172-PKTWQBIUEINZPIGCEYW7/004.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent After about 1.5 hours of mostly hiking we approach what is considered to be the crux of the day. A 700 foot class IV descent down steep granite slabs to the valley floor. To access the best line down the steep granite you have to endure some horrific bushwacking. PHOTO BY: Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585083815545-7F4OHUW8EY1SFIP5DB4R/005.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Gavin begins the descent down “the Slabs.” This is the line where the route becomes technical. Sticky rubber approach shoes are best for this terrain and you must avoid stepping on any moisture whatsoever. A slip would not end well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084246508-IDRUS113QG7HR7M9ZKOQ/006.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent During our descent of the slabs section we heard some voices in the valley below. When we got to the bottom we were met by another hiker that had descended the gully route across the canyon. He and his partner moments before we arrived stumbled across an older gentleman who was sitting on the granite next to the creek. He said he had injured is ankle descending the slabs the morning before and that the rest of his party (his 51 year old son and his 9 year old granddaughter) had continued down canyon to seek help from Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR). As most party’s do this trip in approximately 6-8 hours we did not understand why YOSAR had not sent out a helicopter or ground team to rescue the man by now. This made us highly concerned about the whereabouts of the son and granddaughter. We checked on him and offered him food and water while devising a plan of action to get him out of here. He was happy to get some Advil from me. PHOTO BY: Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084278253-AGA3HWA24AI0IF6GZ9DQ/007.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent After Aaron took down all of the victims (an 81 year old gentleman named Rob) info and pin pointing our coordinates I took out my emergency location beacon which allows me to send text messages via satellite and as I was getting it fired up my son Gavin looked at his phone and he said it was showing one bar of 4G coverage. A call was made directly to YOSAR and all of the important info was relayed to them before we lost reception. They instructed us to call them back every hour for updates. YOSAR said they had not received any calls prior regarding Rob so the situation with the other family members became of equal concern as evacuating Rob. An hour passed and we were unable to regain cell coverage so I texted my wife via satellite, explained the situation and she contacted YOSAR and passed on my Garmin Sat communication devices number so we could reconnect with them directly. After three hours, while I was communicating with the YOSAR ground team dispatched to help Rob, we all heard the sounds of a helicopter down valley toward Half Dome. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084288467-SRZAMHWJ0CEUDJ56GNLY/008.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent The chopper was flying low up Tenaya Canyon with Half Dome in the background. It was immediately clear that this was Rob’s very expensive Uber ride out of here. They circled us several times to access how to extract him and then landed on a slightly flatter granite rock pile about 1/4 mile from us. Two YOSAR members left the chopper and bushwhacked up to us. They examined Rob and explained that they were going to perform a short haul which meant that the chopper was going to fly above them with a haul line, lift up Rob and the two YOSAR crew, fly them back over to the more level area the chopper had originally landed at, land then and then load them all back onto the helicopter and fly them out of there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084321657-OHCJ7UHKABZZPLKN6YJC/009.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Rob is prepped for the ride of a lifetime. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084318851-5SPG2S56U2QZ288C1I3N/010.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent The helicopter flies into position directly above Rob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084350522-OCWLNBHU5DMXAHH563GJ/012.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Rob’s spectacular ride to safety. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084377732-8DT209RWN93GU6WIAJ11/013.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent With Rob safely rescued the focus of the YOSAR team became locating his granddaughter and son. We traveled with the YOSAR ground team down canyon to do a sweep. Not 10 minutes after Rob was airlifted out the ground team received a radio call from the helicopter team notifying them that they have spotted the father and daughter who appeared to be safe but still in Tenaya Canyon. Coordinates were relayed and the ground team jumped ahead using our rappel line to get to them ASAP. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084395829-RLFF2TT59EQ27AX1J0P9/014.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent With the emergency over our only concern was getting through the technical sections of Tenaya Canyon before darkness arrived. Gavin can be seen here in blue making the second rappel into the gorge (zoom in and try to find him). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084414745-6C2420PAZK5HYQVDJXQH/015.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Mike and Marcus boulder hopping in the inner gorge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084439834-4C9W6NGJ94T54PQR86RB/016.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Doing our best to keep our feet dry so our approach shoes would have good traction on the polished granite. Photo by: Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084455897-8V1D2HXS1N94CJAEHKLY/017.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Markus making the waterfall rappel down the LeConte Boulder look effortless. Photo by: Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084486201-VM9O0RZ7QQ7C2GFI8AXG/018.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Half Dome is getting nearer and Quarter Domes come into sight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084512005-U181OJT45D96SNMKF4YX/019.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent More boulder hoping and tricky route finding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084538887-CNG5TR6GGDUOY5OAD0TN/020.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent For the past hour we had been running into a group of five women descending the canyon. They were ahead of us and unbelievably after they would do a rappel they would strip naked and go skinny dipping in the beautiful pools of water in the gorge. We would then catch up to them and they would partly clothe themselves (at least most of them would) and head to the next rappel. We would end up waiting for them to continue and shook our heads in disbelief as the routine was repeated. Was this really happening? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084563391-STX8IK0SWVGJYVYF7O4Q/021.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Tom making one of the final rappels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084560818-8QSQJ1BAPK8VCKUNB32S/022.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent Gavin takes in the unique view of Half Dome from the darkness inside Tenaya Canyon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084583034-QQE6KPKZA9WG3SRXN174/023.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent We exit the gorge as the sun begins to set. We hurry down the last several miles of river bed to make it to the Snow Creek trail before it becomes completely dark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084596544-6QCRS6CS52UZTB7RQRR8/024.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent After a long arduous and confusing hike through boulders, forest, poison oak and scree we make it to Snow Creek Bridge and trail. We think we are home free at this point until Gavin goes below the bridge to rinse himself in the water and almost steps on….. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084608217-YH4LWTLHG7U4OO1XFMNJ/025.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent A Western Diamondback Rattlesnake just inches from Gavin’s foot. A close call at the end of an unbelievable day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084617036-G9Q5SETQ2IE1AT6EYAH9/026.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent The sign at the Snow Creek Bridge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084620592-5Y97O5EBL623UPLOLWHP/027.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent As Snow Creek trail comes down to Mirror Lake we are treated to a special view of Half Dome. We finished the walk to the car as complete darkness falls around us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585084637699-V0M17IGS25ZKVXB37H9V/028.jpg Adventure Blog - Tenaya Canyon Descent The crew. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/the-north-ridge-of-mt-conness monthly 0.5 2020-04-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585335179573-UVJGNS2DK1MX4LE6BMLA/7+11+2019+mt+connes+27.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness That’s me climbing a High Sierra classic, the North Ridge of Conness. Photo: Tom Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585339980901-62PNZRYMB8VBAF7EDH5J/_DSC6504.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness 5am Tom navigates the sun cups covering the trail around Saddlebag Lake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585339994611-ZQEYVF3SKB2XRT1IJFGK/_DSC6532.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Sunrise on North Peak reflecting in our soupy trail around Green Stone Lake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340034527-1PFNJP0312B8QZSOHRNI/_DSC6552-Edit.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom fords the icy cold inlet creek to Greenstone Lake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340476626-PCLLMQ33MF97A9DWWGZ5/7+11+2019+mt+connes+8.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Accessing the conditions of the route. A cornice appears to be blocking the route from the ridge to the descent chute. Photo by Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340060859-SIWPV0LDM69M741AUIYK/_DSC6570-Edit.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness The North Ridge of Mount Conness route arcs around the Conness glacier, one of the few remaining Sierra glaciers. It stays along the crest of the north ridge other than for a couple of rappels down the West side from the second tower. The views are consistently jaw dropping. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340080416-646JQ930HBU5888LSOZ0/_DSC6570.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Mt. Conness in all her glory. The North Ridge route follows the ridge from the right side of then photo to the summit and the descent path follows that sliver of snow that connects the east ridge (on left) with the summit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340099514-YZ2061QSGKNQL4E1MRJZ/_DSC6585.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness These were the conditions that made our day longer than ideal. A positive side note was that we had the mountain completely to ourselves. At the height of the summer season there are hikers and climbers all over the mountain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340123549-DRZXDOLKZ08TF7B4FIEA/_DSC6597.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom high above the intense turquoise waters of Conness Lake (he is that tiny dot in the snow on the upper right corner of the photo). The snow was softening up in the morning sun making our footing a little more stable in a very high consequence section of the approach. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340510756-5Y23TI8G9NGLAAFTMIQ0/7+11+2019+mt+connes+13.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Kicking steps and traversing the final snowfield before the North Ridge. Photo by Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340524168-A83TR3NWR1EEO8M9SLZD/7+11+2019+mt+connes+14.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Having arrived at the base of the route we take a break to have a snack and assess whether we are good to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340547319-OGNWTQ6HPG9IUF1GTF6N/7+11+2019+mt+connes+16.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness We begin the route up class III talus and snow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340142795-2ADE4FIAETSMUVR8LTXN/_DSC6607.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness The North Ridge gradually becomes more defined. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340173311-96T3ZSZFKQJELMPDJDRR/_DSC6622.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom can’t help but smile while he ropes up to simul-climb. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340658876-D7KGFJ8GG3IKJG1U359M/GPTempDownload.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness We approach the first tower as the ridge becomes sharp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340190905-MDQJ7XWUOLA72NHY19B6/_DSC6637.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Simul-climbing the class IV sections. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340621542-8JVR9RHVR6CY5D855QVX/7+11+2019+mt+connes+28.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness The technical part of the climb was not difficult as rock climbing goes. The route is very frequently free soloed. I personally have no interest in climbing that way especially in such a remote area with such great exposure. Having Tom as a partner in this environment is a huge benefit as he can move incredibly efficiently and safely through the technical sections while still using a rope. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340237453-OSA0TEWV35EYSUFIO420/_DSC6659.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom makes the first of two rappels down from the second tower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340291009-3CJGI1S4GLJAP1G2YVYQ/_DSC6684.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom lead climbing back up to the ridge after the rappels from the second tower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340297188-SZ1KDM7ZJTZV65QXBKNR/_DSC6702.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom climbs the most iconic stretch of the route. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340347162-E5QU40W1F95A8IJRZY1U/_DSC6720.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom climbs the most iconic stretch of the route. There is a 700 foot drop to the Conness Glacier just past Tom’s fingers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340238350-HM6FH5Y7AIOQ4TB8CRM3/_DSC6681.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Sometimes the views were just too good to not stop and enjoy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340604681-ZN8T0BILXKR8M2GNMBEQ/7+11+2019+mt+connes+27.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness My turn to climb the iconic stretch. We are right on the edge of the North Ridge here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340351172-EQ4S0IJZVVBGDUO49KS1/_DSC6728.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness The North Ridge route can clearly be seen arcing all the way down to our snow approach in this photo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340394631-G09VDWDDAVT879V9M8OQ/_DSC6730.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom takes a short break on the summit to change his climbing shoes to hiking shoes. We didn’t have the luxury of taking much of a break due to the late time of day and concern that our descent route could be far more difficult than we would like. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340395538-SV65BLIRXE0YA0G77ICM/_DSC6731.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom looks back at the Harding Route on the West Face of Mt. Conness. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340017814-IM0E3MEUP25Z1V5NVM8I/_DSC6570-Edit-2.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness As I walked up to the lip of the descent chute on the edge of the snow I cleared my mind and tried to be prepared for whatever conditions lay ahead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340635463-LI0LU1CQET0OXF1HZLNJ/7+11+2019+mt+connes+29.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Relieved to discover that there is a path around the cornice that is atop our descent route. Photo by Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340431142-OPFH3MSWQB1J6F6TE0N2/_DSC6746.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom descends from the summit plateau after having negotiated some super sketchy high angle snow. We took our own paths down the upper slopes and when I looked to see where Tom was I noted that I don’t believe I have ever seen Tom move so slowly (usually he is far ahead of me!) It turned out he had walked himself into a very high consequence slip and slide. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340665016-QMRYL33PTCXTMEFCNF0C/7+11+2019+mt+connes+30.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Not ideal ski conditions! Descending the sun cupped east ridge of Conness. Photo by Thomas Stargaard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340437789-50RGLTAESTNLQ6ECN01L/_DSC6752.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Tom points out one of the “spicier” sections of our descent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340713234-5OAFZOCCN5FUU7P83JAU/IMG_2385.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness After 15 hours we arrive safely back at my truck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585340716998-ZGEHBUA6N2IU8TAMYSOR/IMG_2391.jpg Adventure Blog - The North Ridge of Mt. Conness Time to clean up. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-four-8j7xn monthly 0.5 2020-04-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585269334697-Y32NYWGM96N0BPNJ1DOO/_DSC4193.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Our camp in the High Sierra with Mt. Dana in the background. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274416116-9NH26TAJEPWKF20LU5WH/_DSC4214.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass First light on Mt. Dana, May 25, 2019. Winter is far from over in the high Sierra. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274596129-T37FHZPQ21IAMT34SCTQ/GPTempDownload+2.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Starting the long hike up Tioga Pass Road from the winter closure gate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275184462-5GQ9Y9N1732KKUTSWESA/_DSC4072.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Iver pounds the deserted pavement of Tioga Pass Road. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274315070-B2ESHKBXMIQ3VHZW52AK/_DSC4065.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Iver and the long road ahead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275178717-8YWA7VOFBQN1SUJZSQ0P/_DSC4102.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Cornices along the crest of the Sierra. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274275464-7LN00XCWOTZXCTAR82D5/_DSC4101.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass As we reached the pass, massive cornices could be seen along much of the crest of the Sierra. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274363997-TAQ7NCL0OXXBOP6J2422/_DSC4116.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Iver transitions from hiking to skiing. Despite having to transport the same amount of weight it was a relief to get our skis and boots off of our backs and onto our feet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274426495-0V68JOJEH7WF59GH69Y9/_DSC6281.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass We skied North up Saddle Bag Lake Road and found the old resort buried under snow. Back when this resort was functioning they would normally be busy preparing the boats and docks at this time of year. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274518836-99OEEFWRSTPHO1CSR8LI/_DSC6311.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Iver being Iver. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275193047-SYRY5WKCSIF9Y715HP5I/_DSC4148.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass A long winters night. Camp with White Peak and Mt. Conness in the distance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275203805-GYU0AAVMC7D138V7GCJL/_DSC4160.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Another view of camp at 3am. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275213295-0JLA3WHESGGCBFQ32CBD/_DSC4168.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass First light and a beautiful view of Mt. Dana. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274376231-X076HF4Q6VNY82OGB1B8/_DSC4193.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Our camp (10,400 ft) at sunrise after a long and snowy night. Mt Dana stands tall in the background. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585329242652-5Z7HRUECQSVSUS1E68BS/_DSC6296.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass We head out to ski tour into the Twenty Lakes Basin behind Saddlebag Lake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275229897-Y2HAJD85WD9J3DRTWVFX/_DSC6329.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass The combination of cornices overhanging our intended route and warm sun made us reconsider our plans. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274472494-1GYEUTV6VWBBOTYBUWKU/_DSC6384.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Iver finds a little snow bowl to do some morning laps on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275239091-OATSW0ZY40GEGF7CZ6ZT/_DSC6398.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass With a storm arriving that evening Iver and I decide to play it safe a bug out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585329605367-3OKMMRDA57ENBLDTXLPY/_DSC6409.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass The storm arrives early. Thankfully we are now on the closed road and my vehicle awaits us at the end of it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275085469-2JWQOGE1PFYEOBGGNTTJ/_DSC6419.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass When you are exhausted, cold, burdened with a heavy pack, in a blustery snowstorm and can't help but smile, you are either delirious or experiencing life to its fullest (and realizing it). I think I can speak for Iver as well as myself when I say, there was nowhere we would have rather been than right there, right then. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585275084636-2ITAHOCDS74JY8MY7O0S/_DSC6424.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Iver steps out of winter and back into a landscape with a much broader color palette. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585274626270-HLXU77FMHNP6T3QEGOLU/GPTempDownload.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour of Tioga Pass Our start and finish point, Lower Lee Vining Canyon Campground. It was 7.5 miles from there to where we had to put on our skis. After returning to our basecamp Iver and I actually watched a movie on my iPhone in my car as the storm outside intensified. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/camp-mt-morrison monthly 0.5 2020-04-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437594533-JSQOV62ENIO8Z3X6LV6I/59691598_10157480957524203_908300177679319040_o_10157480957519203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky My camp at 10,000 ft. at the base of Mt. Morrison https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437698783-R8YQ3Q6OJ52YON41HLRL/59809258_10157480957454203_1072997677966295040_o_10157480957434203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky Alone. Envisioning the scene in 8 hours when the Milky Way would be aligned with the head of the valley. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437696054-6ZDXM9M55WRS3TG7RL7S/59735577_10157480957484203_4009943147294490624_o_10157480957474203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky The tools we have these days that allow us to plan precisely timed visits to locations like this are pretty mind blowing. I had visited this little valley four times prior so I was quite familiar with it. With knowledge of the landscape I began exploring Google Earth and the app Peak Finder to look for ideal places to set up a camp with a beautiful view. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437694282-FVYTNC9PBGDJXR7H2WC5/59658826_10157480957504203_4374356910313308160_o_10157480957499203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky The creeping shadow of Mt. Morrison frames my tent. This photo also does a great job showing how blue the light is in the shade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437699868-1BEPLTGYOYBZHVXWWW8N/59868024_10157480957634203_3305685196421988352_o_10157480957619203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky First light. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437700378-GSGWVFUL03V1E28RWYNM/59899221_10157480957644203_7353798693033607168_o_10157480957624203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky The view down the valley. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437697977-LHHGK6FJE77M5ZBCDQVF/59767429_10157480957719203_2120134979886252032_o_10157480957714203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky The warm morning sunlight reaches my camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585437698523-53C8MUBL5DYL244TB68Z/59691598_10157480957524203_908300177679319040_o_10157480957519203.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Under a Moonless Night’s Sky "The surface of the Earth is the shore of the cosmic ocean." -Carl Sagan https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-two-xlmxd monthly 0.5 2020-03-31 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585093480591-WAS8MV7C8SUN7WEH5VAX/_DSC8696.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Winter Camp Self Portrait, Winter Night at the Sierra Buttes https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585267758010-85TMZWOOCNDGR75SZMJ1/_DSC8627.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Winter Camp Ski touring around Lower Sardine Lake to get to the base of the Sierra Buttes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585267734607-L1EAVHJ4GNNC48KUM1IN/_DSC8647.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Winter Camp My camp at the base of the Sierra Buttes. The clouds begin to thicken. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585267767804-W3UOHVMAP7O7F6W106VT/_DSC8696.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Winter Camp As night sets in and the clouds drop I take one last moment to take in the solemness of my camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585267808820-2BS6N3FOO6CADY4HSAN7/_DSC8708.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Winter Camp After a rough and stormy night I am greeted at sunrise with a break in the clouds to the East. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585267816675-OTLKT9MDLWSS7NZH08JR/_DSC8712.jpg Adventure Blog - Solo Winter Camp The tracks that I left while heading back home. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-three-p7j7j-93wpz monthly 0.5 2020-04-07 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585509314642-W5OX8M5HVHFNQU22R94J/001.jpg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The massive plunge basin at the base of Upper Yosemite Falls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585510806771-1KGSZAGHMIRZF72SMHM3/002.jpg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls An overall view of our route down Middle Earth, aka The Inner Gorge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585510900317-NIKI7OFFVLTISTX27VAA/003.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The journey begins on the Valley floor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585510879120-UPISWOYAFA1GO7OBYTYJ/004.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The route in quickly becomes steep. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585510966026-TODQTQHOVXHHJTUMJOHH/005.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The views of Yosemite Valley are unbelievable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585510977673-83OG30U2EFN8RSIH941X/006.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Getting glimpses of our goal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511045075-DUNAS90LL0OBJYTDEBGI/007.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Gavin above the Sunnyside Benches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511056426-8RPNKWNOD6DTG49XL4G5/008.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Thomas on the approach. Some sections of the use trail get a little exposed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511113758-CHWY93MYG70A8GVNFP12/009.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The largest swirlhole I have ever seen by a factor of 1000 lies near the base of Upper Yosemite Falls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511119897-SHDXD7NH8LMHSJI2OO9W/010.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls We arrive at the base of Upper Yosemite Falls. For about 4 weeks a year the falls dry up allowing safe passage through Middle Earth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511176470-1SEM9RTMN3VBIARBV68S/011.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Resting at the base of Upper Yosemite Falls after the approach. The Lost Arrow Spire can be seen high above. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511182187-XU2TMM7SERQQBEI6HNY6/012.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The massive plunge basin where we begin our descent into the Inner Gorge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511229114-ZKDABAZG8GVBMUZBT0V5/013.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Group shot at the very base of Upper Yosemite Falls. In Spring and Summer this area is pounded by the thunderous water from above. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511246914-6S5IZGHBNG3VN8YK4L2N/014.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Gearing up for our descent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511300115-F8JHUPP0KA9VUXBFVLTY/015.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The upper reaches of Middle Earth carved out of Yosemite granite by the awesome power of Yosemite Falls. Zoom into this shot to see our team members for scale. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511331572-LJMOFZKJYYKDGEWK9OIE/016.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls It is hard to imagine the chaos that reigns here in the spring and early summer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511304521-WS1AACQMQ3V7IWPQ7WZH/017.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Thomas captures a shot of father and son at the top of Garden rappel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511307813-GCS1OFI9YLZKJAOQOAKT/018.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Thomas' shot of Gavin making the third rappel into the gorge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511365306-WUS7SU1J34HLEN4MOC8B/019.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Rappeling into frigid water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511371634-8PBQUY8GLDU1S1HCGPNV/020.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Dwarfed by the massive granite walls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511440186-R4B9QL1SB4N8PYKHP26F/021.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Rappeling into frigid water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511443605-7OG20CW31CH9FKRO7R1M/022.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Pools of water surrounded by the granite cliffs were constant obstacles we had to swim through to continue our descent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511443730-IRHBYKK5PHPMN4UZVS9P/023.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Thomas' shot of Greg enjoying Yosemite's best swilling hole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511446164-H3GE2F1KSELGPCU8S9TW/024.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls A great shot by Thomas that captures the variety of ways we navigated Middle Earth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511446572-DSPI8ZKODXINRLPN4HMA/025.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Thomas Stargaard's shot of me lining bags across a pool proving that I don't only take photos! ;) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511458748-VO8YNWBTV8UTHGZVJNRA/026.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Thanks for capturing this shot of me Seth! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511452418-O9AP5HWTJHCJ3BSV58M4/027.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Thomas captures me taking the plunge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511457209-8B9X47FN2R2SA8JJ1C3X/028.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls An AMAZING shot of Greg taking the plunge by Thomas Stargaard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511518674-3I21M56FT490JGL77Q7D/029.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Gavin traverses the water polished granite at the top Lower Yosemite Falls to rappel down to Matt so they can establish the second rappel station halfway down the 350 foot cliff. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511542538-0X4W4FSIXUJ2L3TUUHKH/030.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Markus checks his messages before the final descent to the Valley floor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511600631-NDGF8RK5WEAO3EY0W2VC/031.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Markus descends the 350 foot face of Lower Yosemite Falls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511620481-7AVDF16TK643RQPVTVX6/032.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Markus descends the 350 foot face of Lower Yosemite Falls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511674424-73LMOI665K65SAA0IGF6/033.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The view hanging from the second rappel station. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511699540-8PR3HBLZHN91ZXQSEZ10/034.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Staying dry at the base of the final rappel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511762159-26T0ISWSY1TRL6VH54PV/035.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Matt at the base of Lower Yosemite Falls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511791703-P23FQ22KXHF5HSNR9AKI/036.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls Rapping up a fantastic journey. Michel touches the Valley floor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511848217-N0FSJ6RSJ0NLFK7OSZ96/037.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls All of us safe and sound at the bottom of Middle Earth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585511853434-029WYWSPHY35T0RK5HFU/038.jpeg Adventure Blog - Middle Earth, Canyoneering Down Yosemite Falls The crew at the base of Lower Yosemite Falls. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-three-p7j7j monthly 0.5 2020-04-05 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264189039-J5KUO0KKBTNOWL7D0P41/DSC04683-Edit.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Gavin and Tom near the summit of Castle Peak Jan 2020 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264941547-FLFBPESM6ZYZJRDYHC56/DSC04644.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Tom scopes out the conditions on the south face of Castle Peak. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264941309-Y12IUAE68RS3MOIM45X1/DSC04683-Edit.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Gavin and Tom skin up the north ridge to the summit of Castle Peak. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264957895-NUGU3TEUOGNUSE8GJQ7W/DSC04711-Edit.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Tom takes a look down a line on the north side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264976114-RQTMI7Q1FDEAHYC39IQ7/IMG_3726-Edit.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Summit Selfie https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264952623-GIIDQDOA5ID7I55IWEVS/DSC04728.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Snack break on top of Castle Peak. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264976118-8HL2EWIOIH3MMFU8ZKQ5/DSC04757.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Tom avoids crashing into me. I have a fondness of using very wide angle lenses when shooting adventure sports. They can give a perspective that most accurately represents being there. The problem is that it generally looks best to have the subject near you and in this case I didn’t leave a good path for Tom to swoop by me. Sorry Tom! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585264962458-SPSSVOPNMB4KXIRE8YSW/DSC04743.jpg Adventure Blog - Ski Tour Castle Peak Gavin reaping the rewards of his efforts. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/via-delle-bochette monthly 0.5 2020-03-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419590871-FAISPIPE1E3KJVFIDOEI/031.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The most spectacular stretch of the via ferrata Bocchette Centrali. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419949884-AF5GGZ8MTIA2XUQEFYF4/001.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The Brenta Group of the Dolomites. The Via Bocchette traverses these peaks at or near the crest where there is a series of Rufugios located a days journey apart from each other. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419953413-4ZS2RQLB19WWQ3MYZ7DP/002.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Group photo at the start of day 1. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419969204-XDWIIE5L201CP8B92MJW/003.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Our first taste of exposed trail. The diagonal line that Matt is pointing to is our path around Cima Groste. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419969306-5ABV87NPW0MMGOQ2Z7FE/004.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Playing the game Chutes and Ladders literally. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419982960-1GA0YDKWHZ0PIJVOJQ8S/005.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Olivia shows the men how it is done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419982616-1AZDIKBDRSRCSCRRQLP8/006.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Greg's awe inspired enthusiasm was impossible to contain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419996347-DWAMZJLO4E3563RS3AKS/007.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Matt and Olivia posing for an epic snapshot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585419991894-8ICLM1OZUSMLH527DA7J/008.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Greg Kelderman excited to be heading to the evening's refuge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420001829-NHK6400MN2T1GBC8ZAG1/009.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Rufugio Tuckett, our completely other-worldly home for the evening. If you look closely you can see our next day's path up that snowfield to the col. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420007919-EMLTWT8ME1M3V6197FVU/010.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Sunset from Refugio Tuckett. Despite the harsh terrain, flowers popped up in the most unlikely places throughout our journey. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420009331-A7MHWN06HFAWXAJ80OUZ/011.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Keith Bunney taking it all in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420018748-Y8X5LMQNZJW5VFKGB883/012.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Our group (less Bob) enjoying the sunset outside of Refugio Tuckett https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420024488-DOZ4QGSKISE8BMPYLHVB/013.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Greg Kelderman pressing ahead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420033620-44RPNQ9ZAXR3OL4MD09G/014.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Thomas Stargaard navigates the Bocchette. Interestingly when Tom was a child his family went on vacation to that lake off in the distance and it was on that trip that Tom came up with the idea of traversing the Brenta Group. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420040289-RBSB65NGI946DHAKAJBM/015.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Working our way off of the crest before the afternoon storms build. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420046969-F7C3AE9NX6LHJ6P8VIBE/016.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Greg walking the line between fixed ladders. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420056380-7F5GL8IGGE88CL2PUVQQ/017.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Keith Bunney pauses to enjoy the moment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420066114-3EULZWZ5A67Y9OQ5ZPH7/018.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Descent from the crest and onto the snow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420066555-G5MMN3FAG3Z2IZ2PIGX0/019.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Ladders and more ladders. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420083101-R7GZJTIFIWOP70T18JA2/020.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Enjoying a more relaxed moment at the end of our day as we approach Refugio Alimonta https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420082513-82I06ILS49EJWRHGN47W/021.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The end of our day as we approach Refugio Alimonta https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420096250-PNXNR0MD72XTGQ2I8B7I/022.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The end of our day as we approach Refugio Alimonta https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420101802-8A0LUZ5IDZFM739T95UH/024.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Sunset at Refugio Alimonta https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420094250-22OQCRD5B417360LL8DC/023.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy "Old School" selfie. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420102572-KXR2AYDPGWBN3Z1UAJ8S/025.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Refugio Alimonta https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420114932-D2EI7F3VQ4XLQ2VGLD21/026.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Morning hike to the glacier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420115647-Y35EVNHNJ5HEC4YY43HX/027.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Up the glacier to Bocca del Armi https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420133514-OHQVGZHZA3RUY8T2MJ8M/028.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Enjoying some the most famous stretches of the via ferrate Bocchette Centrali. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585422851801-N87VXDZ3KVMKAWC00O9D/38085214_10156769199739203_2708771307343839232_o.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The view straight down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420129910-CUVDX1P2STPGF68FH74D/029.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Enjoying some the most famous stretches of the via ferrate Bocchette Centrali https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420139542-MKYD8YMK46XB4K1F2PZM/030.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Thomas Stargaard getting the perfect angle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420152379-K891GD0XH28XI1X8OIC8/031.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Probably the most photographed stretch of the via ferrate Bocchette Centrali. Glad I brought my 10mm lens with me to make something different. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420153582-3O0Q3WXU28EKCVN4JXHL/032.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Enjoying some the most famous stretches of the via ferrate Bocchette Centrali. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420168880-E8MFPO67T6F015BXYYN8/033.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Enjoying some the most famous stretches of the via ferrate Bocchette Centrali. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420171652-809AKS870JCKQBVUFSG7/034.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Keith Bunney walks the plank. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420186275-35KA2FUDGUV6IJ3W94V7/035.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Keith Bunney walks the plank. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420186891-DMJ1UC0QCYH77AJWZ7W0/036.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Thomas "in his mind" (an inside joke) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420201961-6U8AK6YFOXG4SRBR6KCF/037.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy End of an epic day, final stretch to the evening home, Refugio Pedrotti. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420202062-GR9SM5CC34VQY31GCRRZ/038.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Michel, Thomas and Greg sorting our tomorrow's route. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420213704-XKO75RZDB4O3WCKSVG3H/039.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Greg and I enjoying a stroll around Refugio Tosa https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420219604-KWBO89GTVEMYYIWNGHZW/040.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Refugio Pedrotti at the base of Cima Brenta Bassa (If you’re viewing this on a phone, zoom in and take a closer look.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420228545-BPTRQBG9IJXJ50WJJ821/041.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Greg Kelderman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420228457-DENKMUZ6R5P7OLLT3XIY/042.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Dining with a view, the Refugio Pedrotti. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420244420-R8K4IPOFOXBUBFHCZAXC/043.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The beautiful start to a wicked ascent and stressful final day of technical travel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420239698-9TEVLABFHPT7YIFD4HS9/044.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Trying to race the gathering clouds over Bocca di Ambiez https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420250554-8GCO0N4KWTS7X2DSH5OG/045.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy What exactly is a via ferrata route? It's a cross between extreme hiking and low level mountaineering. It is a method of mountain travel that allows for somewhat ordinary humans to experience the exposure and grandness that is usually reserved for the serious mountaineer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420258872-DI3DKANT4T71RIBA7ML0/046.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Coming around the shoulder of Cima Tosa, we snuck through this col and descended to the glacier below just as the clouds shut down visibility. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420262399-Q15G1OLLCN9ENRI6DO4L/047.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Tom descends the glacier to our final Refugio 12 Apostles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420269988-6BFHWZAUO9B14RBRDBUH/048.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Crossing Camosci Glacier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420285729-Q5DUMCKQ6H4EIJ0H193E/049.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Refugio 12 Apostles https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420284991-VT5W65X718EZUFG5Y054/050.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Hiking to the climber's memorial at Refugio 12 Apostles https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420296559-SCLHLX64X367JZI9595Z/051.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The Climber's Memorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420298974-9FPSXNYCR1FMKI61F4DY/052.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The Climber's Memorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420303368-XTKAHT8NMVZPJDTBLTW3/053.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Enjoying the dramatic electrical storm from the safety of the Refugio. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420311174-40TJ3T91XLPY445MZDCE/054.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The morning of our final day hiking. Departing the Alpine world. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420319123-SXLFYW3ZU0T2APM8AFMB/055.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy The descent. The first trees we've seen in a week. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420324140-ZSET1P15OG0OI72P7NN2/056.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Back to the land of color. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420337259-ZUYFK2GMJZ3T7OJZBFA6/057.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy On our descent not only did the colors and views change, the smells did as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420336857-HY1V6SMUPO0WWPNURLIN/058.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Mountian cabin, the Brenta Group, with Refugio 12 Apostles in the distance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585420345229-C42XKQ1WX4RJCLCG8YQL/059.jpg Adventure Blog - Via della Bochette, Dolomites, Italy Parting shot of the group. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-four-8j7xn-nd6kt monthly 0.5 2020-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585770895570-DP4CV91X2LKMALZJN7XO/011.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail Scott Birk is nearly washed out to sea attempting to cross a rain swollen creek on the Lost Coast Trail. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771349979-1GX77W0ZMF9D2T9ZIIYA/001.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail After driving to the North Coast and shuttling our cars we started off late in the day Saturday and enjoyed a beautiful 3 mile beach hike Punta Gorda Lighthouse. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771366961-7HQ4OHX1CDSB472AWP7Z/002.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail A peaceful and beautiful sunset at Punta Gorda Lighthouse. Near the Westernmost point of California. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771424990-9BN9PYMNXRGAQJ61C6NW/004.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail Scott’s ultralight tent at Camp 1 on the beach near Punta Gorda Lighthouse. The guttural sounds of elephant seals entertained us all night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771444469-DR6DSLETLSOJR9CR0OIT/005.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail My tent at Camp 1 on the beach near Punta Gorda Lighthouse. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771444547-Z90S11BYGTSGONZAXYXO/006.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail Scott with a century old blade to a ship prop found on the beach. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771461121-YPIT68A5SHKNXDZYEQZB/007.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail On day two we crossed the Northern 4 mile stretch of no trail zone on a receding tide. It was this stretch of coast that would radically change in 24 short hours but today it was somewhat tranquil with rain forecasted starting in the evening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771458419-S2DE914ZOYZC8X9P21YU/008.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail Scott negotiates the fine line between cliff and surf along the Northern section of low tide hiking only zone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771477450-LAFLXEVLZPE6MJYLYZOQ/010.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail Decaying whale and pouring rain. Perhaps not a good omen. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771471526-UGX2E5NWB3VZNI8S8GS5/011.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail Scott attempts to cross the raging Big Flat Creek. A mile and a half into what was supposed to be our final day hiking we approached Big Flat Creek and were shocked to find it a raging brown torrent of mud, boulders, and trees tumbling into the angry sea. Scott and I separated to scout the situation for possible ways across. Scott saw possibility in a low crossing just above the surf zone and went ahead to attempt it. Just as it appeared that he would make it across he stepped into a hole and was immediately swept downstream with his pack fully fastened to him. As he was about to be washed into the surf zone he gained his footing and dragged himself back to my side of the river. As I watched him go into the torrent I literally thought that he was going to die. I dropped my camera and pack and was very focused on not loosing sight of him as he was washed into the surf. I did not have many options as far as a rescue, but I hoped that I might be able to aid him in some way if he was able to get out of the confused waters where the surf and raging river were mixing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771497988-VCIVYV7JLYINQQARGO4I/013.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail After Scott’s near death experience we regrouped to discuss our options. We had no idea how long it would take Big Flat Creek to go down enough to allow for us to cross it. Having what we thought was a clear idea of the terrain we had covered from the start of our trip we decided to turn back and try to hike all the way back to the start point (where Scott's car was parked). Our timing would put us at the no trail zone at a receding tide and we were familiar with that stretch of coast and we did not think that the creeks that we had crossed would have swollen to the extent of Big Flat Creek (we were off by a factor of 100). After hiking 4 miles in the pounding rain we came up to the gateway of the four mile stretch of low tide hiking zone, Randall Creek (this photo). It looked nothing like what it had the day before. We studied it for about an hour and then made a break around the mouth of the creek and sprinted around the rocky point. From this point on things got very serious and I put the camera away to stay focused on the very dynamic landscape. We high tailed it along the cliffs and pounding surf for 2 miles avoiding continuous rock fall and full blown mudslides. One boulder several times larger than a basketball came rocketing down the cliff and launched off and landed with a deep thump right in front of me (at least 20 feet away from the cliff face). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771486429-21IDLHZBVP6C7ZTFH1ES/014.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail This photo: Cooskie Creek the morning after it had been raging as a massive mud, tree and boulder laden torrent. As we dodged the falling rocks, mudslides, and surf I saw in the distance something that was very disturbing. The surf went dark brown and was enormous up ahead, a clear sign that a larger flooded river was flowing into it. Half way into the no trail zone we were stopped in our tracks. After 12 hours of heavy rain (which dropped 4.1 inches) Cooskie Creek had grown in size by a factor of at least 100X. It was a vast torrent of dark brown mud, with the sound of boulders rolling ominously underneath its surface. Attempting to cross it would be suicidal. Thankfully, where the torrent shot out of the cliff, there was a bluff large enough for us to pitch our tents on. By 5 pm we crawled into our tents completely saturated. All night we listened to the sound of the surf, the river raging with its growling boulders, and the rain on our tents. Needless to say, I was a bit anxious. I had no idea how long it would take for the river to recede to a safe level. I was able to send text messages to my wife via satellite and she and my son researched the details of the weather and surf forecasts for us. By 3am the rain had mellowed and the sound of the river began to quiet down. We climbed out of our tents around 5:45am and with headlamps on we found that the river had receded dramatically. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771498403-FXIQKXW3S2N32U86QM22/016.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail The remaining hike along the beach was actually relaxing. The rain had completely stopped. We were out of danger and not far from our trips starting point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585771506651-KDXMQ02YTDMFRCUW0YG6/017.jpeg Adventure Blog - Flash Flooding on the Lost Coast Trail As we approached the Punta Gorda Lighthouse Scott mentioned to me that we had not had our morning coffee yet. We hiked up the hill to the Lighthouse ruins and enjoyed what quite possibly will be remembered as the most enjoyable cup of coffee of my life. Suffice it to say, I learned that life can change in an instant and when it does sometimes the smartest and safest thing to do is nothing and let the storm pass. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-three-p7j7j-rxwz4 monthly 0.5 2020-04-02 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585777802218-C9AP4H4WVGGV094TZJ1P/001.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Dr. Brian Hausback on the summit of the volcano Tres Virgenes, researching the volcanic hazards of Baja California. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778015277-A603NM137X9NMF3ZL0SJ/002.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Our expedition featured in National Geographic’s April 2001 issue. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778016189-5JIOCLHN3TXK74QED4YT/003.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Volcanologists study the ash deposits on Isle San Luis. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778027373-W0HS5STTYTX4DE3RBJ32/004.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Our morning commute to work on the Isle San Luis. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586115375016-QCYDAHF81NBJIAH0OHW2/Screen+Shot+2020-04-04+at+6.31.46+PM.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Google Earth view of Isla San Luis and the location of our basecamp on the Baja Peninsula. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778039243-V6BTTKQKUSGJ2OY00WV0/005.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Dr. Hausback trying to find a way to date when the most recent eruption occurred on Isle San Luis by taking samples of the multi-layered bird droppings in the rookery on the island. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778052680-370URBZXAFW0PEE5KQXH/006.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Brian checking in with base camp from the summit of Tres Virgenes volcano. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778060390-RQ2DAPF160XV8Z0M8LXR/007.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico The enormous cliffs of ash deposit on the southern flanks of Isle San Luis. Locals have witnessed enormous chunks sloughing off and crashing into the sea not dissimilar to an iceberg calving off of a glacier. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778080911-B4OME3YNTL4KVJF6KDNL/008.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Sharing stories and cervezas around the campfire. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778074774-S90EVVN9UXTRNK2F8UPP/009.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico We camped on the peninsula while researching Isle San Luis and hired local fisherman to take us to the island everyday. The island was home to large rookeries of pelicans and there was little fresh water making it not suitable for camping. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778101994-3U7975YPSUY39GSNHR7C/010.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico The worst of the cactus were the cholla. If you so much as brushed up against one the thorns would grab hold of you and the lobe of the cactus they were affixed to would break off. If you tried to pull it off of your body it would stick to your hand. We literally each carried a fork on our belts to use to pry off cholla from our bodies. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778110369-FE0LG7MYSY6578VUAY1Y/011.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico After an incredibly long day Brian, Paul, and I summited Tres Virgenes Volcano and simply rolled out our sleeping pads and did an open bivy right next to the memorial that was there. In the morning you could see not only the Pacific Ocean to the West but all the way across the Sea of Cortez to mainland Mexico. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778120979-VJRMP183J8VZEL2INYH6/012.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Dr. Hausback (aka the Volcano Doctor) on top of Tres Virgenes Volcano at sunrise. That shadow is being cast from the volcano we are standing on top of. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778128164-K28FK2QXV1DKNSEZEWAN/013.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Dr. Brian Hausback. Geologist, volcanologist, and big curious kid. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778139633-CXK39FU9SB9YMS4HG0ZP/014.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Cruising the shoreline of Isla San Luis accessing where to land and what to study. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778148001-J7O5BH5KGBY4KDA3R6KU/015.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Chris Farrar, US Geological Survey scientist otherwise-known-as the Gas Man or Papa. For the science geeks reading this caption, it was Chris who discovered that Mammoth Mountain in the Eastern Sierra was expelling enormous amounts of CO2 in the mid 1990s that killed vast stretches of forest. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778171185-C3IVMAC11M37UV386ZCU/016.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico On the shore of Isla San Luis accessing ash fall deposits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778171325-VJPILRNT17W0JGQ1T27B/017.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Brian taking notes on the tidewater lagoon on the northern end of Isla San Luis. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778195684-EVAUJKUAIT76A45S00GY/018.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Geologist find a massive “popcorn bomb” thrown from the central volcanic cone on Isla San Luis. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778193910-6E9Y5BZZR3JTK2MQD2EG/019.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Francisco Paz Moreno taking a close look at deposits along the moat around Isla San Luis’ central volcanic cone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778205222-ZOVJ1S8OB4OFWYD9TBG1/020.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Isla San Luis is an important nesting grounds for pelicans and is closed to public access. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778216147-2HECFE4T9P7MNUVXWZRN/021.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Dr. Hausback and his giant bird shit sample that he wrapped in tinfoil and then duct-tapped up tight to take back to the USA to have a carbon test done on to access when the last eruption of Isla San Luis may have been. His packaged sample looked exactly like the illegal contraband that I’ve seen in movies for decades. Thankfully out vehicles were never inspected by the border patrol or they would never have believed us as to what it actually was. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778233739-TZ0CLAWY9LIRVJIAPIVA/022.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Several hundred feet above sea level geologist pinpoint a spot to dig a pit to look for fossils of crustaceans that they might be able to date to access how and when Isla San Luis lifted up out of the Sea of Cortez. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778239705-NNCM51J0RS1POP86Q15B/023.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Brian digs for fossilized seashells far from the shoreline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778257335-BESZ4E2TOUK1QSIA38S3/024.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Brian finds what he is after. Seashells hundred of feet above sea level. By dating these in the lab he can access the timeline of Isla San Luis’ volcanic creation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778266353-31NTSIGC1Q11ZR3N71RB/025.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Brian digs out seashells to date and a Cal Tech student logs them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778276193-M66OGZGNSAZEKY74Q423/026.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico After several days of exploring Isla San Luis Dr. Hausback mentioned how he would love to see an aerial view of the island. When we went to the nearest village to purchase food and clean water we say a small dirt landing strip and Dr. Hausback immediately tried to find the owner of one of the planes that were parked there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778287721-BC2VOKWMTV635QNMJU9Z/027.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico We were offered a flight free of charge by a very generous college teacher from Los Angeles. He had been traveling around Baja with his wife in their small and somewhat tattered Cessna. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778295611-7S39CEBKSLVCZMMT97D5/028.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Brian sat in the co-pilot seat while I was in the rear of the aircraft where all of the seating had been removed. I was able to move freely around to get shots out both windows in the rear of the plane. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778430081-DJXUQNU52D5YB62RPUAE/BH00B-5-_004.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico We blacked out the rear window in the plane to minimize the reflections on the inside of the windows. I had my camera up to my eye for 95% of the flight and while I have never gotten motion sickness I came as close as I ever want to during this flight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778310040-PH5NYV25KXNPD8G2KT4R/029.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico A bird’s eye view of Isla San Luis. It was funny that while the pilot was more than willing to take us on a flight around the island, he told me that I’d never get a good shot through his plane’s windows. I sent him “thank you” note with a copy of the National Geographic magazine that featured a lead-off double page spread that I shot through his plane’s window. :) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778311938-3EGZBDZHJW7PPKOP9FFE/030.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico A rare calm moment on the Sea of Cortez. Here the team is being transported north from the town of Santa Rosalia to the La Reforma caldera where we will spend several days camped on a beach and exploring the caldera. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778329387-H74H6X9O83WE45LI5ZU0/031.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Being dropped off on the beach and unloading all of our gear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778344267-OAJKQ84CRPELR5XQDWON/032.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Camp life was always pretty lively. Rattlesnakes, scorpions, centipedes and even coyotes made visits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778354761-4HW5UURI0420YPT4V0NM/033.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico A fascinating display of columnar jointing discovered in the La Reforma Caldera. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586115383012-J32QPFLV3CVAH6ODERHL/Screen+Shot+2020-04-04+at+6.33.20+PM.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Google Earth view of the second area the team of geologists studied. La Reforma Caldera is the giant crater along the coast and Tres Virgenes volcano is marked just its west. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778368158-CS5B2VQ5N8LBP125Y3FL/034.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico The team moves camp to explore the northern flanks of the caldera. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778380140-Q97QARMRV6XWN5DKJ44Q/035.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Paul Verke the expedition’s writer and USGS Geologist Chris Ferrar descend into a crater that is on the perimeter of the La Reforma Caldera to take gas samples from the crater floor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778389184-A4X9YQ9TMLV63EU4F2VZ/036.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Chris assembles his gas sampling instrument. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778402579-WJXK0CQLEMJ6PQIFB0B3/037.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Hiking back out of the crater after having taken samples to catch our boat ride back to camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778406890-QHAHMMMHUHNQ6ZG3TMG0/038.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Chris Ferrar banging on some colorful rocks. I’m sure he was doing something scientifically interesting, but I just grabbed the shot because of all of the cool colors and the action! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585778414217-6P8V67KQG00K1D18VKH7/039.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico Geologist Dr. Joanne Stock from Cal Tech takes care of some blisters back at camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586289026127-YQOFTFVHKBKXRFZYIW4V/IMG_5216.jpg Adventure Blog - National Geographic Expedition, Baja Mexico One of the cool things that would happen when you shot for Nat Geo is that you sent the film (old school) straight to them in Washington DC and they would process it and edit it without you having ever seen how the photos turned out! Eventually they would return the film to you in their super cool slide mounts. :) https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-three-p7j7j-gl74n monthly 0.5 2020-04-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585672803013-UA8PG6TSZFSBG3PT69T2/cape+fairweather.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Rupert on the left, is carrying a two man whitewater raft used to cross glacial rivers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586115311683-62PKV93OZJW1QQO2LDVP/Screen+Shot+2020-04-04+at+6.29.56+PM.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska We started in Lituya Bay after being dropped off by bush planes. We hiked the coastline northwest for approximately 60 miles to reach a remote dirt airstrip at the mouth of the Alsek River. In this Google Earth image you can see the massive Fairweather mountains as well as the glaciers we had to negotiate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585672990678-JW8HR7UT4TRIM1ESHYAK/001.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Having just landed around 30 seconds prior, I took this photo out of my planes window of Tom and Viju’s plane setting down on Anchorage Cove in Lituya Bay. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587503191794-CI1NWB42XCLUCDVHVO8X/DSC07480.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska The second of the the two planes takes off (the first can be seen in the very upper right corner of the photo) leaving us completed disconnected from civilization. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585672991413-WVNHLYLQKQ901B5BG0U1/002.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Looking for a place to land after a one hour flight from Yakutat Alaska, our bush pilot scans the beaches of Lituya Bay. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673005048-IJZRBB50GY84EZUUICAT/003.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Just minutes after being left in the wilderness we start the arduous hike up the coast. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587503178899-41ZQ3PP4411OXWCSFCUY/DSC07483.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Tom ferries Rupert across Eagle Creek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673021656-1OND6BSZJX2CCB2LIU54/005.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Rupert carried our white water raft while the rest of us carried our camping equipment and food to last 9 days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673009329-QRKZ60NL11O6O8R1GD34/004.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Cape Fairweather is a point of land that sticks out into the Gulf of Alaska where many ships have met their demise. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673024452-H150GUZWCZ7HZ2X4BQQX/006.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Our path alternated between walking the shore line and walking around 20-30 feet back in the forest where frequently we could find a bear trail to move more efficiently on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673036279-3TOGJJPGJHE89XCRE6DU/007.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Rupert making good time on a bear trail. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586045525218-BOTOCRBG4MPSJPCIBLPK/DSC07053.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Rupert and Viju fording a swollen creek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673034023-01AYWV6NLK42Z23WJ830/008.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Camping in this area was very challenging. We treed our food every night with a counterbalance system to keep it safe from the grizzlies. We had 2 two man tents and we would set them up as far from bear trails and the beach as possible and usually in the densest thicket of bushes as we could find. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673051253-3AFGXTRXE065AF147EGZ/009.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Rupert returns to camp after gathering some fresh water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586283950368-LW78ZT87OBSNSHEQJZ33/DSC06930.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska How business is done in coastal wilderness areas. Not a bad view. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673051257-9BBB79884OFWS70KJUM3/010.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska On five occasions the use of our white water raft was required to continue our journey. Here, Viju and I had paddled across this creek and once across we set up a haul line to tow the boat back and forth across the icy waters with all of our gear. When all of our gear was across, Tom and Rupert jumped in and joined us on the other side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673060542-YOFYNADNUE9LUL59PCGU/011.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska After several days the clouds lifted and 15,000 ft. Mt. Fairweather came out in all her majesty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586283939450-OQBK4NGFKRT4FTJ5TU1V/DSC06993.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska The Fairweather glacier slough was the largest river crossing we had to make. This “river” flows about a quarter of a mile from the face of the Fairweather Glacier to the Gulf of Alaska. The distance across this was too far to rig our haul system so after Viju and I made it across, I paddled back and picked up Rupert, and then after crossing again, I got out and Rupert went back for Tom. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673067122-XYY3400Z8MXRTRUKAI8N/012.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Tom and Rupert crossing the Fairweather Glacier slough. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587335708333-3DV8W4GHC73LQ8GWL4AN/DSC07183.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Viju and Tom navigating the rocky point of land that is Cape Fairweather. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586283942411-FH694C9SEWS0XV93QCH2/DSC06995.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska The Grand Plateau Glacier river was our last serious obstacle. This photo was taken as we flew over it on the way to the start of our journey. Instead of attempting to cross the river we opted to bush-wack through dense devilsclub infested rainforest to the shore of the giant melt-water lake in front of the glacier. We then paddled around the mouth of the exit river and fought our way back through the rainforest to the coast. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673081192-CEGW8ROYTPHX7WVAYL5B/014.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Rupert and Tom paddle in the Grand Plateau Glacial lake with the magnificent Mt. Fairweather in the distance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673090317-4I55BHXO4J9M5ICWMD5B/015.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska There was no proper shore along the glacial lake as the dense rainforest overhung the water. We had to setup and breakdown the raft in the water. Had there been a suitable place to camp we would have definitely spent an extra day at this spectacular spot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673094929-P7R7YN5OUAWDLLQIKTD7/016.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Making great time and absolutely loving life. There are no better moments in life than ones like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673119589-1K2MRMXRJO2N0ZD4PMM6/017.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska As mentioned this is prime Grizzly habitat. Virtually every moment we were out there they would on our minds. Anytime we were near dense forest or large rock out crops we were making our presence known by calling out “Hey Bear, Ho Bear!” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673114698-ZXOJH6OOMP7A5J7E9BU0/018.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska We had several encounters with Grizzlies although there were signs of them everywhere (like the previous photo and this one). Most encounters were from afar and we gathered ranks (safety in numbers), waved and yelled, and on occasion we blasted airhorns. One one occasion, while Rupert was taking care of his morning business at low tide, a Grizzly popped up on the dune above where he was about 50 yards down from us. This fella did not seem as intimidated by us as the others had been. As we jumped up to join Rupert (and as Rupert pulled his pants up) this guy stood up on his hind legs to get a better look at things. He stood there for quite some time as we all grouped together. He clearly was not the least bit scared of us, which was un-expected as the grizzly bears in this area have no contact with humans so they frequently run off, unless of course it is a sow with her cubs. We stayed together and walked toward our camp and the bear simply continued to check us out until he eventually got back down on all fours and moseyed away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673144253-XJ47IJQCBHEV87SGT533/019.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska We didn’t only share the beach with Grizzlies, we shared it with giant wolf. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673135827-F228CDIS9A85ZYZUCH73/020.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska On our final morning in the wilderness when we went out on the beach below camp we saw the fresh prints of a Grizzly and a wolf. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673153431-XXJO15MYWV4UCVWMTIZV/021.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska An ideal place to enjoy our evening meal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587503179069-FL2Q8U1TA217WGKUMKHS/DSC07533.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Our camp kitchen. Always more pleasant when the sun is shining. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587315570003-5F1V4GS9VM9K5KY2Q91H/DSC07177.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Tom and Rupert fueling up and airing their feet out. Evenings on the beach were magical if the sun was out. Look closely and you will see a little stream in the back left corner of this photo. As waves came up the beach salmon would make a break for the stream. Most would be left high and dry as the wave pulled back out to see leaving the salmon as easy pickings for the gulls and bears. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587503193362-D6QAA7QC750GII638B8X/DSC07454.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Rupert cleans up while Tom and V enjoy their morning brew. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673168779-SMQB3VSCEHHXC0EPB5QF/023.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Navigating the last of the boulder lined beaches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673178545-GN3HCTEAIUNHN9DOZUEW/024.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Frequently while walking along the beach like this we could tell when our next major river crossing would be not by seeing the river itself up ahead, but by seeing the massive muddy breakers off-shore created by the outflow of water into the surf. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673186750-B3NF87PXB8VS1BTX6AXL/025.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Deploying our raft for the last of the water crossings. We had several hours of hiking once across to get to the landing strip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673197695-NGDN0EM5Z6UJ4BQBK8HZ/026.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska The last day hiking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585673198050-PN5XCIKPI2OCD3UT6KTY/027.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska Looking back at our tracks along one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever visited. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587316634633-XT2JH479Y5R5STQWBBAL/DSC07259.jpg Adventure Blog - Cape Fairweather Traverse Alaska From the left, Viju, myself, Tom and Rupert arrive at the remote airstrip at Dry Bay and board our bush plane that will take us back to Yakutat. The pilot told us that we were the first party in 4 or 5 years that completed the Cape Fairweather traverse. This traverse may be the single most adventurous trip I have ever done, especially when you consider that there was no safety net (sat. phones, emergency beacons, detailed forecasting were not available). We completed the 60 miles in 6 days. In those six days we experienced physical exhaustion, sleep deprivation, intense fear (at least I did!), elation, camaraderie, intense focus and clarity. Having done many trips since then I can’t help but look back and shake my head a little as to what I was thinking when I organized this trip. At any point this adventure could have turned bad very easily, but it didn’t, and my life has been forever changed because of it. https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-three-p7j7j-7fw3r monthly 0.5 2020-04-05 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586112009702-G1F1FGRTU0VV2TB8TN5Y/001.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Bill Spear and Susan Kirkness row the St. Lawrence River skiff Louise down Lisiansky Straight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113782763-10O62IGPI2QRVD94XCML/002.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau The route we took began on the outside coast of Chichagof and Baranov Islands and then cut into the northern entrance to the Inside Passage via Cross Sound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113786878-6UB85DA0D85ARN8PXGXU/003.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Viju and i arrived at Bill and Susan’s home several days prior to the start of our trip so that we could practice our rowing techniques on the waters right outside Bill and Susan’s home. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113798107-W13PFFBTKXO1NGHCRSHL/004.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau The journey begins by us pulling the skiffs from the water and transporting them from Bill and Susan’s home to the Juneau ferry building. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113806376-DJ3YN125VTC6Z9T8CCI2/005.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau We were an odd site waiting to board the Alaskan Maritime Ferry with wooden boats on dollies and not an RV. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113813770-US3CADMBKJX2U8DF8M0C/006.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau We secured the boats inside the ferry’s vehicle deck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113815269-3ZUKSM6KS8PPMQP8K1N7/007.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Upon arrival in Sitka we literally rolled the boats off of the ferry and right down to the shore besides the ferry. We then launched the skiffs and put our boat dollies back on the ferry to be delivered back to Juneau. We started rowing back within an hour of arriving in Sitka. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113825887-BN0T08VANMQOLFH4SXQ8/008.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Susan powers the Louise while Bill navigates from his position in the stern. Being a rowboat the rowing has their back to the direction of travel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113827850-3EWOBMP6ICTRRCSKJIR6/009.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau He is the viewpoint of the navigator seated atop gear in the stern of the boat. There is in no seat for anyone besides the rower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113838743-HQR8RL6LM9GQJXAMNPWQ/010.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau The waters were typically calmer in the early mornings and as the winds picked up in the middle of the day so would the waves. Because of this we frequently left camp very early in the mornings and completed our rowing for the day before noon. Tides were also a huge factor in deciding what time we should be out on the water rowing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113849690-ORTWQN30PRVI5VFAGWIL/011.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau We camped back in the rain forest as bears frequent the beaches at night looking for food. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113856508-8JC8HCLLK7UEIH9XZF2C/012.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Camping with 20 foot long wooded boats was a totally new experience for Viju and I. Normally we are hyper conscious of the amount of gear we bring camping but the skiffs had ample room to bring some luxuries. In the evening we rigged a pulley system that would allow us to moor our boats out from the beach and in the mornings all we had to do is pull a line to ferry the skiff back to shore. This allowed us to store all of our food items out of bears reach in the boat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113860612-ONY64CFLFRCVC8J9KG4U/013.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau One of the most startling moments I have experienced in the wilderness happened one morning when Viju was rowing and we were about a half of a mile off of the coast in the Gulf of Alaska. We were intentionally going around a section of coast known as the potato patch where there were numerous rock obstacles not always visible depending on the tides. Keep in mind that this trip preceded handheld GPS’. According to our nautical chart we were giving a wide berth to the known rock obstacles. As Viju was rowing we were experiencing large ocean swells and with that comes deep troughs between the swells. As Viju was looking over his left shoulder toward the coast we entered into an exceptionally deep trough. At the bottom of the trough not 10 feet to our starboard rose an enormous rock. The swell quickly lifted us back up and the rock disappeared. My face instantly turned pale. Up to that point in the trip I had thought the dangers we faced were predictable and if you planned accordingly they were insignificant. My false sense of security was lost after that moment. Had we been 10 feet over we would most certainly have capsized in an instant. The thought of being in those waters and that far from shore makes my heart race to this day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113870925-CLRYJ9DMM40EOICRHYHW/014.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau We were dwarfed by our surroundings the entire length of our journey. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113878176-XRY17Q53AVA7I4KO4QBJ/015.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Peter reviewing the charts with us on a rare sunny camp evening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113882153-0ABXCX30DKFB4OLFI6FK/016.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Viju enjoys his evening martini in the Alaskan wilderness. A modern twist to the concept of enjoying tea in the Sahara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113900060-OWT9F7WUMXJ7NQWVGX0O/017.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Chilling out in mother nature with friends. Life really does not get better than this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113901450-4J3I7ODX62KROOI314QJ/018.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Occasionally we stayed at camp for a day instead of rowing due to high winds in the forecast. On these days we beach-combed. Here a ship’s life preserver was found washed ashore. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587503720485-NF6K38VKU3B3JC242YBN/DSC07459.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Either a bear or sea lion skull (to the untrained eye they look nearly identical). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113923441-WZQ55NFGNRJU649LFYLO/019.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau While we always consulted tide charts when setting up our mooring lines at night, sometimes we mis-calculated the depth of the water we were in! Our boats high and dry at morning low tide. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113926035-LCGCL7BT0H8YY1V184I6/020.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau The waves on the beach were mesmerizing to listen to at night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113935148-8ZPX7FO6V6OA5YP8YSU5/021.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau On the morning of the final day spent on the outside coast before entering the Inside Passage the group members gather at sea to discuss whether we felt comfortable or not trying to make an end run around the outside coast of Yakobi Island or whether we should cut into Lisiansky Strait and into sheltered water. As much as we all wanted to have rounded outside of Yakobi, the horizon was very dark and there were no protected bays on the outside coast of Yakobi to seek shelter in if the conditions worsened. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113935425-IAQJBY5QGN4505J9BWUR/022.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau We depart the Gulf of Alaska and head into the protected waters of the Inside Passage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113947795-I1RLPQAOQFIWHEKSD1BA/023.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Viju makes good time in the smooth waters of Lisianki Straight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113948459-QAV0CK79M3VO1ELBPFA4/024.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau This image captures some of the sense that I felt out there regarding how magnificent nature is and yet how inconsequential our lives can be relative to it. One afternoon we left some protected waters on the outside coast. We split the gap at Dry Pass between rocks on both our starboard and port with giant ocean waves crashing on them. We entered the Gulf of Alaska and rowed into large swells. At that moment I realized how if we were to capsize we would probably struggle for a few minutes at best before succumbing to the frigid waters. And then we would be gone and yet the gulls and cormorants would continue to squawk, the waves would continue to crash, the sun would continue to shine, the only difference would be that Viju and I would no longer be rowing a boat there. Nothing else would change. The day would go on, business as usual. That was not only a sobering realization it was liberating. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113959177-8OCSCWO57GSKJ80FE3LK/025.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Bill and Susan in the Louise. We spent the last two days of the trip with them alone as Peter and Sarina opted to row home via Point Carolus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113962645-64U7OW5L5UGDHAFM3IRS/026.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Bill and Susan in their boat the Louise. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113975483-MA3IVTERHR1F5DBX4GUS/027.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Bill and Susan prepare for the final day rowing across Lynn Canal and back to their front porch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113975311-1E15Q6DH9WKTDZ5W4WNQ/028.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau I believe this may be the only photo of me from this entire trip. Photo by: Viju Matthew https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1587326746918-CHFGW5SWU5Z8JMGU9BV4/DSC07164-Edit.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau The winds and waves picked up during our crossing of Lynn Canal making for a long and rough final day of rowing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586113989037-H05TEJXWDBGDX8XCQKVC/029.jpg Adventure Blog - Rowing Wooden Skiffs 220 Miles from Sitka to Juneau Immediately upon pulling ashore at Bill and Susan’s home after 12 days of rowing we broke on the scotch and Viju pulled out his Bombay Sapphire for a celebratory toast! https://www.keithsutter.com/adventure-blog/blog-post-three-p7j7j-hmg76 monthly 0.5 2023-01-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585532692602-1I8TU5KQ2OF6YNBYVF9C/camels.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Our caravan on its way to making the first ever crossing of the 780 mile Taklamakan Desert in western China. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586066156215-W05DN7V5G3S2F6BNNSAK/Screen+Shot+2020-04-04+at+6.28.54+PM.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Visually the Taklamakan Desert is a very distinct geologic feature on the globe. It is known as the land farthest from the sea and its name translates to “You go in but you don’t come out.” The red line marks our 780 mile route. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591624787-6RRZ0YPK1AC70Y4N7VE8/002.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Team members Rupert Burton and Carolyn Ellis break trail and choose the best route through the dunes for the camel team. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591637713-EGJOD6BE6FDZMO1NVLX5/003.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition I frequently walked my own line through the dunes so that I could be far enough away from the team to photograph them in relationship to their surroundings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591636902-R821PHC8VFMFPW9FMMN5/004.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Carolyn alone in the dunes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591649067-R8C3K3CVRN2VJX2EBGWF/005.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The Western contingent of the crossing team (plus Guo Jing Wei). Yes, that is a much younger me on the right in blue. :) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591649380-08138HZX0TA6ITDZSEQW/006.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition It took the crossing team 59 days to cover all 780 miles of the desert. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591660680-CT13KEM3KESRXNBJNS3E/007.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Life in this region of the world has not changed much over the past century. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591661577-SXL4LWU0I5U8EDY4BWJ4/008.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition It was difficult to move the teams of camels together as a unit especially at moments like this when the terrain forced them to move ahead at different speeds. Frequently the rope between the camels would break and then there was mayhem! Especially if some gear started to come loose on their back. They would try to shake it free as they pranced off into the dunes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591671042-JPGSIMVR8PH2X64G1NLO/009.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The Taklamakan Desert is the second largest sea of sand in the world. Only the Sahara is larger. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591681533-EA9MLIAD7VPZZFWGB3ZQ/010.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Esa Polte, one of the Uighur camel handlers climbs a giant dune near camp at the end of a day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591682418-3K0IISCO2C3S0KRJ9EHF/011.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The re-supply team was equipped with 6 wheel Austrian Pinzgauer transport vehicles. They would make forays into the desert every 100-200 miles to bring the crossing team more provisions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591696037-4ON65BBA3MSCQ6NYFLBS/012.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition As able as the Pinzgauer transports were they were still vulnerable to getting stuck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591698429-9W6G1ZBOOHGR9CIYC0HQ/013.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The re-supply team was stuck for nearly 4 days in this incident along the Keriya River. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591711932-I2DBZ5QS18153WRC525I/014.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The re-supply team’s unintended camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591709497-6AZ1O7Y2YJD4LNFLQ3DC/015.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Another incident that the re-supply team got into was when one of the Pinzgauers became lodged in a jumble of logs that it was trying to cross a river on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591733542-DR71XS7PYL4F679O6N8C/018.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Trying to free the logs from under the vehicle was not only physically dangerous but if we took out the wrong one the vehicle could easily fall on its side in the water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591719572-CRSPZ7CMKAQT64BZTE25/016.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition When the crossing team and the re-supply team met in the desert there was always great stories to be shared and logistics to be worked out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591724406-R3P286YDBMEY1096NVSO/017.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Paul Treasure cooking up a storm on his desert mud stove. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591737606-Q1GO5NPA4Z5TCDQ3PSAE/019.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Two of our re-supplies were at tiny remote villages deep in the desert along ancient river beds. Here the crossing team members enjoy a rare beer brought to them by the re-supply team. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591745173-441ZU7OSX8MXNAUUCN6H/020.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The crossing began at an elevation of 5000 feet on Sept. 24 and finished at an elevation of 4000 feet on Nov. 21. Needless to say the temperatures dropped well below freezing the final weeks of the crossing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586283488198-JH5KAO53QG14SLT6EER0/DSC07031.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition A rare photo of me. Enjoying the evening campfire with some of my local friends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591749277-L1PT85TAPTG1EAX0JUBG/021.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The day before the start of the crossing the locals held a huge parade and send off event for the team. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591757015-07H9ZQ82AJ9YEQ7NH5FY/022.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Rupert sits atop our supplies at the airport in Beijing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591762291-Z413WDQIEWIH1NO4F7BS/023.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition We had different ranks for the camels. The stronger and more mild tempered ones were used to carry out personal water supply. While the younger more temperamental ones carried sleeping bags and our clothing as they could do little damage to these items. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591765635-UU2KAQKBRW0TP6CTAA07/024.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Mark and Rupert prep the satellite phone for media calls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591775578-QZLWONPCKJJ1MHJ258LO/025.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Mark and Rupert place the antenna for communication with the re-supply team a hundred miles to our South. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591776569-JILFD1HMQ99HCCFSUHU4/026.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Most evenings the crossing team had to dig an enormous pit to find water for the camels to drink. Sometimes retrieving water from it could be dangerous. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591787401-HJOJA9X91YTWQI7OOLRU/027.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The sand quality changed throughout the desert. In some areas you barely left a footprint and in other areas you could sink down to your calf. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591788330-8ZJBCCAPO9K056OCQLNV/028.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition In the morning the caravan would start off together but as the day wore on groupings of around 7 camels and several team members would start spreading out over the route chosen by the days navigator. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591800342-7OM2J1YCTBBIGE1EX1DP/029.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Major Charles Blackmoore, our fearless leader, in the dunes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591800650-Y79LMWUVJ1IQ6SAG0V8E/030.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Dwarfed by the sculpted sand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591813559-H832UWF3AD0FWSCGL705/031.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Charles leads the way toward the distant Marzatagh mountain range. This shot graced the cover of the hardback book on the expedition. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591814901-LDVYA6EYZDWLKT6AA3KT/032.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition As we approached the Marzataug Mountain range in the middle of the Taklamakan the dunes became smaller and more erratic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591826089-ZL4EVLGTGUR4P13YG92I/033.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Lunch was a simple affair. We carried it it our daypacks and sat down for around 30 minutes to rest and replenish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591827439-IRR8SZHXBQ1ROSA05MD4/034.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The Marzataug Mountains and an ancient Buddhist temple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591836665-P2JEBLIE1NGDZ8JME0NZ/035.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Mark Kitto rides off into the sunset. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586283489893-BYBYISHIH1M81PBJ6MXJ/DSC07005.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Richard writing in his journal. I’ve never been consistent with journaling but I was on the expedition and I am so grateful that I was. It is fascinating to read back on my experiences and thoughts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591839529-UR0H3FMM4F3Q9P6163ID/036.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Daybreak. We all had duties in the morning assigned to make the team as efficient as possible and to get on our way as quickly as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591849181-DTREQJ8JUOOALGV995NI/037.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The arduous task of loading camels. It took approximately 2 hours every morning to break camp and get the camels loaded up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591853207-K5R35EX2B4A3HTUUOGIZ/038.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The dry air and desert sun took its toll on us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591863970-8LYA5I4LI908ANJYN5CZ/039.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Rupert enjoys lunch with his friend Chumba. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591864510-FSOT68CG17QVL50XJTMN/040.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Another camp, another well to dig for water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591875109-DSQ6KXI21JCIGD4E9J93/041.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Rupert steadies a camel as Carolyn our team nurse and honorary vet, took the scalpel to an infected wound on a camel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591874936-HEBLVDRAPIAWJFSS8BF7/042.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition There was ample time to contemplate things. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591885688-IX83GIPBBG1F93YUMV9C/043.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition This lone poplar tree was a site for sore eyes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591885480-9SXTYW42RLXVRVH96EYD/044.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition At times like this when I was off on my own trying to get interesting shots of the crossing team it was extraordinarily special. It was almost what I imagine being on a space walk would be like. So quiet, desolate, and yet there was still a little anxiety because you did not want to get separated from the team. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591895404-908Y56EJFZV7S2BEV4KH/045.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Storm clouds over the crossing team. While there was no rainfall during our crossing there were sandstorms, otherwise known as Kara Burans. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591895103-OCGVQGZDGO592OQ8NZ02/046.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition As a photographer there was a never ending supply of artistic and untouched sand dunes to photograph. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591907106-IR4LLFUDNQBSBYJJXJM7/047.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Camel detail. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591903624-W0C6JH0FQIKPED6HAKGZ/048.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Two of the Uighur camel handlers were named Abdul. As a sponsor to the expedition British Petroleum gave us a bunch of their hats. Guess what our nick name for this sweet man was? BP! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591917851-6GX5CQFQW0VB3H552O94/049.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Rupert and Charles model their tattered Patagonia retro pile jackets for me. Actually this photo was from when I had been with the resupply team and we went out to meet the crossing team near the end of the expedition. I hiked out a mile or two to the West to greet them and this is the moment they walked up to me after not seeing any non-crossing team members for the previous 10 days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585597171430-YURUIKDF3DPZ0Y0M2K84/sutter0039.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The mad scientist! Or so we called the man that the Chinese government sent to join us on the crossing. He actually was a scientist and he joined us to evaluate and study the Taklamakan for its potential oil reserves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591923375-OQVV1JU5N0M5W321LFJZ/050.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Charles keeping track of the provisions before embarking on another leg of our journey. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591931988-FF9F4MCVESPRB4N9FBKB/051.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Both the crossing team and the re-supply team hamming it up for a photo for Ray Ban (one of our sponsors). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591938357-3WIRN3VR0NSJ3QD4X5RD/052.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Back to business with the sand dunes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591944092-WW0HK1WEZC6ABAHU2FWJ/053.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition As I have been going through these photos and making captions for them I can’t help but think, I was 25 years old when I was assigned the job of documenting this expedition. I can only dream of how these photos would have turned out if I shot them now, with over 30 years of experience in photography and probably still being fit enough to actually get across this desert. Back to the normal captions….. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591947171-35OZUXL5M06PCY86LMGS/054.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Mark puts on a show for some of the Uighur children at an outpost deep in the desert. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591954212-WUYCRAWMGPOXFR9PB2TV/055.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The desert was simply enormous. We arrived at points like this every several days of travel only to see endless desert as far as the eye can see. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592089351-JF6MLQHWFEQ5ME2TT2J2/079.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Charles being interviewed by Chinese Central Television. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591969318-MT54AC1ZM62LNSC76AKD/057.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The locals observe Carolyn taking inventory on our supplies. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591975491-KRKA0OKKB8BXL5JZ3KAB/058.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The core members of the crossing team, Charles, Carolyn, Mark and Rupert. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591980131-3CTZ9MXFCHOLHOU64MV2/059.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The core members of the re-supply team and their vehicles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591988655-OLCWLMWNSECH2H20Z16J/060.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The entire Western contingent of the team enjoying a meal together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585591990467-JBVPFLUF2RQU5SZ34OJJ/061.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Carolyn cleaning and infected saddle sore on a camel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592000354-NBWG0LDGB7SIQA11LU7T/062.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Carolyn sharing her lunch with Chumba the camel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592000369-XAXN547TVKZGS5YX62QV/063.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Rupert trying to sort out matters of efficiency with the morning loading of the camels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592012208-QFYRQ9NUZNJBJ58S3HEH/064.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Rupert covered in smelly camel regurgitation. This is what the camels would do to you if they disagreed with you. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592012473-QFJB582OSF5PIL7R3HRF/065.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Rab gear was a sponsor of the expedition and here Rupert and Carolyn get good use of their Rab jackets while getting the cooker going in the predawn cold. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592018792-OE4KK7U4ELZDAUT3CF1D/066.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition After a month in the desert the camel train was running pretty efficiently. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592027321-321DSG188NELK8I2QKAF/067.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Carolyn sorting supplies. When the crossing team was with the re-supply team there was ample water so we would wash our smelly clothing (you can see it air drying in the background). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592029234-BI1R9WMCV30BVFEWPMXG/068.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Along the Southern Silk Road a shepherd tends his flock. The Kun Lun Mountains are in the distance with Tibet on the other side of them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592036801-U00A5XTF3G67YBG7GHZF/069.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Where cultures collide. It was always heart warming to meet locals on the re-supply team that have never seen a Westerner and yet you could share a smile, laugh, and a photo with them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592039405-M0KTE25T0IF4DDNCXHXK/070.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Charles navigates a path through a tricky section of dunes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592042495-3NVDH618THV2TBVXSBEE/071.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Carolyn enjoys one of the simple pleasures in life, a hard earned quiet moment enjoying a hot cup of tea. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592067014-2HVN6Y30HP33DKTIMP7K/075.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition After 59 days the crossing team arrives at the eastern edge of the desert. Both the Union Jack and the Chinese flags are carried the final steps of the crossing before we met with the press. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592088634-IVFFM8W7K3M9Z385G38D/078.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Charles and Gwo celebrate the completion of the first ever crossing of the Taklamakan Desert. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1586283469832-E2622QCN24PK38D3BZIK/0173.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Charles celebrates. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592064937-WBQVMSIHG14H9JQRUJL9/074.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Carolyn greets the locals while being paraded down the main street in celebration of the crossing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592116238-2VOZ6Q9LJ4JSEOJHYWPU/083.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The community threw a huge celebration marking the completion of the first crossing of the Taklamakan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592078817-IV35LZT6ML828NNA34DA/076.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Carolyn is mobbed by the local children. She became quite the celebrity from the expedition. Not only was she the only woman in the crossing team, she was one of only two people (her and Rupert) who walked across the entire desert without riding on a camel. She was named explorer of the year in England and gave countless tv, radio, and newspaper interviews. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592079161-FDDCPY8U008OORT2SCIO/077.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The entire crossing team being celebrated by the community. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592055902-FC2J4577WZH9FW2A73X9/073.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The morning after completing the crossing and after a huge community celebration, the British members of the crossing team spend their last visit with the camels before beginning the long journey home. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592101834-JVTGID04PDUGZ207HHQB/080.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition For the last photos in this blog I want to feature the locals from this region of the world. They are ethnically Uighurs who are Turkish descendants. Currently there is a struggle going on as the Chinese government is forcing them into internment camps where they are said to be being “re-educated”. Re-educated means they are separating families and trying to indoctrinate them into becoming nationalistic and to loose their cultural and religious heritage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592102483-KIC2V50JQ3F7MW8F9WZR/081.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The Uighur’s I met across the entire Tarim Basin were incredibly kind and generous. They invited me into their homes and shared food and smiles freely. Their lifestyle has changed very little in over a century. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592114881-DMM0X7YYT5Z74HWMMAQL/082.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The Uighurs I met were incredibly hard working, whether they were the members of our team or those working in the fields around the villages. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592129056-LC06HJJLANFCJPR6SEER/084.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition I stood out like a sore thumb when I walked through a village. I was a 6’2” blonde Californian and this region had been closed to westerners for many decades. Needless to say it was difficult to not attract a crowd when I walked around. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592130693-DIJ5B0ZYE4FJUUJHG0OF/085.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition A glimpse of life in a Uighur village. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592140931-7CBBD1CNT95BGP91L9BN/086.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition A captive hawk used for hunting in the desert. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592148229-710RHEV1UWQV4XJ7MAYS/087.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The spice man at the local bazaar. I literally purchased a one gallon plastic bag of saffron for a few dollars and brought it back to California with me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592150292-QDTSVYSHWCDHZYRF7Y3B/088.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Portrait of a Uighur man. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592161213-TG90NVTKQHYUO73EDJDT/089.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition A Uighur man just after his morning prayers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592164676-EJBQYT78AYEH44RT2YRR/090.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Portrait of a Uighur Imam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592165249-Z5NL9VHNYOHFDG1SY0R0/091.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition Silhouette of my friend Suleiman around an evening campfire. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592179655-JQ986RKGOQ9FNOMA8NCK/092.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The local Uighur butcher. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585592188766-MI8XWLX8V3VY7RK1EISW/093.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition The Southern Silk Road lined with poplar trees as it enters the town of Ruojiang. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585596519905-IK9TXQJ7YUIEY2ZDJJLI/Taklimakan+map.jpg Adventure Blog - The Taklamakan Desert Crossing Expedition A more detailed look at the Taklamakan Desert. We started our trip at the left edge of the desert and completed it on the extreme right of this image. You can see a couple of the seasonal rivers that come into the desert from the South that were used by the vehicles to make re-supply runs to the crossing team. https://www.keithsutter.com/the-empathy-series daily 0.75 2020-04-08 https://www.keithsutter.com/the-empathy-series/Blog Post Title One-9gllf-cer4h monthly 0.5 2020-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585440430862-IH2DKV96EPYB6N3Q68FQ/Ebb-and-Flow.jpg The Empathy Series - Ebb and Flow We don't see things as they are, we see things as we are. -Anais Nin https://www.keithsutter.com/the-empathy-series/Blog Post Title One-9gllf monthly 0.5 2020-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585330485325-A46NFH12W3SABHIG76JE/Good.jpg The Empathy Series - The Land of Tears "Compassion is not a relationship between the healer and the wounded. It's a relationship between equals. Only when we know our own darkness well can we be present with the darkness of others. Compassion becomes real when we recognize our shared humanity." ― Pema Chödrön https://www.keithsutter.com/the-empathy-series/Blog Post Title One-9gllf-zy9y2 monthly 0.5 2020-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585357794723-EOQ0GYDQ1HJSQP6NHYYL/Within.jpg The Empathy Series - Within “We are each our own devil, and we make this world our hell.” -Oscar Wilde https://www.keithsutter.com/the-empathy-series/blog-post-title-three-3xxrk monthly 0.5 2020-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585333511191-GADXJJB7TS2F75335V2Y/Awakening.jpg The Empathy Series - Awakening “When two people relate to each other authentically and humanly, God is the electricity that surges between them.” -Martin Buber https://www.keithsutter.com/the-empathy-series/blog-post-title-two-3zhm6 monthly 0.5 2020-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585331885345-58V47X6V1ULEIA0STFIQ/Karina+Final+High+Res.jpg The Empathy Series - The Human Condition “They say time heals all wounds, but that presumes the source of the grief is finite.” -Cassandra Clare https://www.keithsutter.com/the-empathy-series/blog-post-title-four-zsmdk monthly 0.5 2020-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7938be6b11885eeba48064/1585334158768-GBC8XXUHO2TSY5OM4T06/Arian-Final.jpg The Empathy Series - Peace in the Storm “The dark does not destroy the light; it defines it. 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